The current issue of Caribbean Beat (the inflight journal of Caribbean Airlines) carries a story about the five areas of touristic interest in Guyana. This is part of a promotional effort in connection with this year’s 50th anniversary of Guyana’s independence. One of the regions described is the savannah (or Rupununi region) lying south of the coast. It was in this region (in what was then British Guiana) that Evelyn Waugh spent much of his time during a 1932-33 trip he later described in his book Ninety-Two Days. The author of this section of the article (Brendan de Caires) quotes from Waugh’s book to evoke the character of this remote area:
Outsiders arenât always charmed. Trekking towards Brazil in 1933, the British writer Evelyn Waugh felt so disoriented by the landscape â âempty plain; sparse, colourless grass; anthills; sandpaper trees, an occasional clump of ragged palmâ â that he sought refuge in the writings of Thomas Aquinas. Waughâs diary, which would later be written up as Ninety-Two Days, finds him âsat among ants for an hour,â enduring âgreat heat and suffering from thirst,â cold and sleepless in his hammock, and with âfeet full of jiggers.â Water offered no relief: âone does not do much swimming in these rivers because they are full of dangerous creatures â sting ray, electric eels, and carnivorous fish.â En route to Kurupukari, he endures the company of Mr Bain, a man whose âtiresome solicitudeâ and garrulity disprove the legend that âmen who administer distant territories are âstrong and silentââ:
âListen,â said Mr Bain one day, âthat is most interesting. It is what we call the âsix oâclock beetle,â because he always makes that noise at exactly six oâclock.â
âBut it is now a quarter past four.â
âYes, that is what is so interesting.â
Waugh returned to British Guiana in 1962 on a cruise with his daughter Margaret, then 19.  He wrote of this journey for the Daily Mail and the Sunday Times in articles reprinted in Essays, Articles and Reviews (“Here They Are, the English Lotus-Eaters,” p. 583 and “Eldorado Revisted,” p. 592). He found conditions in Guiana much changed since the 1930s, with horseback travel to the interior replaced by jeeps and airplanes in the wake of newly opened bauxite mines. He was appalled by the racial hatreds that had been revealed by introduction of a degree of self rule and concluded that “no collection of people could be less ‘ripe for democracy’ or even for one-party dictatorship” (EAR, p. 595). Waugh also discovered after his return to England that he had bored some of his British hosts during this visit, a revelation from which he never fully recovered.